Arahne focuses exclusively on weaving
Slovenia-based Arahne has been developing textile weaving software for over 30 years. Arahne's products, ArahPaint, ArahWeave, ArahDrape, ArahView3D and ArahCatalog provide a full solution for the weaving industry. Arahne’s clients are weaving mills, design studios, hand weavers, and universities from all over the world. Arahne has over 900 customers in 40 countries. Arahne is present in India, Türkiye, the United States, China, Taiwan, Pakistan, and Thailand. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, CEO Dušan Peterc discusses Arahne’s journey, its role in digital weaving technology, and how its innovative CAD/CAM solutions are transforming the textile industry.
Arahne has been a key player in CAD/CAM software for weaving. What inspired the company’s founding, and how has its vision evolved over the years?
Our company founders were software engineers with experience in graphics and user interface development, and we thought the textile industry was a good fit for our expertise. In 1992 we were planning to develop image database with strong search capabilities, categories, keywords… nowadays Pinterest does very well what we wanted to do. We were searching for industry partners, and we were stunned that the problem was not a lack of ideas or images, but basic CAD work tools. At that time, textile CAD cost a fortune, and many companies could not afford it. We explored many branches of textile industry and were met with a lot of misunderstanding; people simply did not get the concept of development and collaboration. We talked to the people from knitting, printing, and apparel manufacturing, but ultimately, we found weavers to be the most friendly ones and most open to development. An additional factor was that in weaving, especially in jacquard, CAD is a production necessity, not a designer’s toy. Luckily for us, most jacquard manufacturers did not make their own CAD, or made a really bad one, since they viewed software simply as a cost, not as value added proposition.
The role of CAD has changed tremendously in the last 30 years. In the beginning, we were fighting with customers who rejected printed fabric simulation. Now they insist on them. CAD used to be an island of computing in the weaving mill. Often it was the second computer in the company, the first one was for accounting. Nowadays CAD needs to be integrated in network with the looms, needs to exchange data with ERP, get yarn stock in real time, calculate the price, and feed fabric data back. It needs to give tools for design confirmation in all stages, not just as printed simulation, but also as digital fabric simulations or fabric textures used in 3D visualisation.
The textile industry is seeing a rapid adoption of digitalisation. How does Arahne differentiate itself from other CAD/CAM solutions in the market?
Focused on weaving: Unlike other CAD/CAM programs, Arahne focuses exclusively on weaving, providing tailored tools for dobby and jacquard design. In jacquard design exclusive techniques such as extra weft, fil coupe, jacquard colour shading, overprint are supported. Various complex effects like seersucker, wrinkle, metallic yarns, raised finish, empty dents in reed, fringe… are all supported
User-centric design: The intuitive interface and user-friendly tools make Arahne software suitable for experienced designers as well as beginners. We have spent countless hours next to designers, teaching them how to use the software, and witnessed their struggles with repetitive tasks. We always take notes and try to improve the process by adding new features and removing obstacles. We take special pride in high level of interactivity—all functions are always available, and changes in final fabric are immediately visible. Some other software is much more rigid and forces the user to work on one thing at a time in more or less fixed sequence. So, our software is appreciated by creative designers, while purely industrial technicians are sometimes puzzled by too much freedom.
Global recognition: Arahne’s program is used by designers worldwide in weaving mills, design studios and schools. The software is translated to 18 languages: Bulgarian, Catalan, Chinese (simplified and traditional), Dutch, English, Finnish, French, German, Italian, Macedonian, Persian, Polish, Portuguese, Russian, Slovenian, Spanish, Thai and Turkish. All program texts are external to the software and are easily modifiable by the user. So, we have cases where our customers update the translations for us, for the languages which are more exotic, and we cannot justify paying a professional translator. We have nearly 1,000 different customers all over the world, and many larger mills have multiple licenses.
How is Arahne’s CAD/CAM technology useful to the textile industry, particularly in terms of design speed, precision, and cost-effectiveness?
Fast sampling and realistic visualisation of the fabric: ArahWeave CAD software allows designers to design, modify, test patterns quickly, without the need to weave physical samples. ArahWeave, ArahDrape and ArahView3D enable real-time visualisation of how the fabrics will look like on the final product, speeding up the inside validation and customer’s approval.
Precision and error reduction: ArahWeave CAD software ensures pixel-perfect design, which are critical for detailed jacquard fabrics or complex weave structures. Automated error-checking features help detect design flaws before production, reducing waste.
Waste reduction and cost-effective: Digital samples reduce the need for weaving physical samples. Designs can be easily enhanced or adapted to different sizes, colour variants without starting from scratch. With support for dobby and jacquard format files, production files are sent directly to the loom from ArahWeave CAD, reducing the production time. With these processes we cut down on material waste and optimise energy consumption.
With ArahWeave CAD, FabricViewer, and ArahPaint6, you offer an end-to-end digital weaving experience. How do these tools streamline the textile design process compared to traditional methods?
Arahne's textile design tools provide comprehensive solutions that improve efficiency, accuracy, creativity, and sustainability, outperforming traditional methods. The tools provide entire digital development, from fabric design to finished product.
ArahPaint6: ArahPaint is a textile-oriented software for drawing and editing images in seamless repeat. It offers standard drawing tools, supports multiple layers, unlimited undo, and allows designers to draw in fabric density. ArahPaint6 has special filters that use mathematical algorithms to generate quick pattern variations by rearranging motifs into different mosaic-like designs. Compared to Photoshop, we offer simpler tools for colour reduction, colormap editing, and filters do not introduce new colours on borders. A notable feature is its ability to load CAM formats, enabling verification of files from systems like Stäubli JC5 or Bonas EP.
ArahWeave CAD: ArahWeave CAD software integrates design of dobby and jacquard fabrics into a single software. The designer creates a realistic fabric simulation in real size using fabric technical data, such as density, thread pattern, yarn count, weave, variable density, yarn colour, etc. The fabric simulation is generated interactively, thus there is no need to wait for the software to export the fabric render. The fabric in different colour variants can be saved in image format or exported as texture, which you can then apply to the photos of the final product in ArahDrape texture mapping software or on pre-made 3D models in ArahView3D. In ArahWeave you can save the production card, in size up to 65,000 ends and 65,000 picks, in a dobby or jacquard file format and transfer it via network to the loom for weaving. ArahWeave XL allows even bigger sizes up to 240,000 picks. Such big sizes are used for sampling different designs without stopping the loom. ArahWeave can be interfaced with ERP system to import and export data such as yarn codes, yarn price, yarn availability, yarn colours, location of the yarn stock, thus streamlining the production.
We showcased a new feature at the Filo fair in Milan in February: the integration of Gemell’s 3D rendering programme FabricViewer with ArahWeave CAD software. The designer can export the finished fabric to FabricViewer in 3D, where they can inspect the weave and fabric on the filament level, examine the fabric on the 3D model, and generate the realistic fabric simulation on the 3D render of the model. The user does not need any additional plugins or entering more parameters to export the fabric from ArahWeave to FabricViewer, as the process is seamless.
Your software includes a vast database of historical weaves, such as 19th-century patterns from J. Moiret. How does incorporating historical designs benefit modern textile manufacturers?
Nowadays, it is difficult to find old weave books in a library; only a few editions might still be existing in hard copy. New books on weaving are very rare; it is a niche market. The historical weaves are a source of knowledge on weaving for future generations. Modern textile manufacturers can learn about simple weaves to more complex multi-layered weaves, to weaves which create special effects on a fabric. Art of weaving is one of the oldest manufacturing expertise in human history, dating back thousands of years. It is very hard to invent something totally original in weaving. By digitalising the weaves from the historical books, we not only preserve the knowledge from the past, but we make them instantly and permanently accessible to designers. In ArahWeave we have a library of 54,000 digitalised weaves from several weave collections such as Poma, Donat, Serrure, Giudici, Moiret, Gisbert, and others. Designers can access the weaves directly in the ArahWeave and use them to generate their fabric simulations. Additionally, the weave browser in ArahWeave CAD software allows designers to load all the weaves at once, evaluate them graphically and search them by different parameters such as size, number of shafts and floats. User can choose to evaluate all the weaves at once using current warp/weft pattern and fabric density. We also have special function in jacquard, which generates weave file with weave samples and weave name for the chosen weave selection. So, the customer can choose and touch the weave from the fabric, if they prefer.
Digital prototyping reduces waste in textile production. How does Arahne contribute to sustainability within the textile industry?
Arahne contributes to sustainability in the textile industry in several ways:
Digital fabric samples and realistic visualisation: In ArahWeave CAD software you can design technically accurate fabrics, and the program generates a realistic fabric simulation in real size. The fabric stimulation is generated interactively, thus there is no need to wait for the software to export the fabric render. The fabric simulation can be saved in an image format in different colour variants. The fabric can be exported directly to Gemell’s FabricViewer to inspect the fabric and weave in 3D. This process allows for realistic simulations and immediate visual feedback, reducing the need for physical samples and thereby minimising material waste.
Product presentation with ArahDrape and ArahView3D: From ArahWeave CAD software you can export a fabric texture in repeat and apply it on a photo of the model in ArahDrape texture mapping software or a pre-made 3D model in ArahView3D, to see how the fabric looks like on the final product. From fabric simulation images, 2D models and 3D models, designers can create digital catalogue, to show the new collection to the customer online. This capability reduces the necessity for manufacturing multiple physical samples.
Accurate colour management: Arahne integrated the Nix Spectro 2 spectrophotometer in ArahWeave CAD software for designers to measure the colours of the yarns and create a colour palette directly in ArahWeave. This capability ensures precise colour measurements and consistency throughout the design and production process. Accurate colour management reduces errors and the associated waste of materials and energy in correcting colour discrepancies.
Optimisation of sampling and production, massive customisation: We use our deep knowledge of weaving machinery loom interfaces to join different designs on the same warp, allowing them to weave in a single batch, without stopping the loom. This technique can be used to optimise the sampling, since we do not stop the loom in order to change the design. This results in energy savings, reduced down time, and requires less interventions by the weaver. We can also add almost desktop publishing capabilities to weaving, adding text with woven design identification, or instructions for finishing. In this way we reduce the errors and eliminate the need for extra labelling of fabric samples. In case of mass customisation, we enable economic production of single piece of design in an industrial way. We offer tools to ERP where ArahWeave CAD can generate the jacquard card file based on JPEG image, create simulation and send the file to the loom, all without human intervention.
With the increasing demand for sustainable textile production, how can digital weaving technologies contribute to reducing waste and improving efficiency?
With digital weaving technology we can create realistic visualisation of the product from beginning to the end—from realistic fabric simulation in real size to the final product on a photograph or a 3D model. Digital weaving technology contributes to reducing waste by:
Reducing the need for weaving physical samples: Realistic fabric simulation eliminates the need for physical sampling during the design phase. Designers can refine, edit the designs immediately in the program, reducing the number of test fabrics woven before final production. Auto-correction functions in the program detect errors before the fabric is sent to production, preventing defective fabric waste.
Reducing the necessity for multiple physical prototypes: From ArahWeave CAD software you can export a fabric texture in repeat and apply it on a photo of the model in ArahDrape texture mapping software or a pre-made 3D model in ArahView3D, to see how the fabric looks like on the final product. This capability reduces the necessity for multiple physical prototypes, conserving resources and lowering environmental impact.
Efficient production process: By interfacing ArahWeave CAD with ERP, designers can import/export yarns, price, and availability, thus streamlining the production. Automated file transfer from CAD to dobby and jacquard weaving machines reduces the production time and energy consumption.
With advancements in AI and automation, do you foresee a future where AI-generated designs will dominate textile production? How does Arahne plan to integrate AI into its solutions?
We plan to use our large fabric, weave, card and colour variant databases to train AI and automatically add some fabric correction or design methods from old files. But these can also be programmed as separate algorithms for specific tasks, which we already have. For example, long float correction, correction of image repeat, automatic weave selection etc.
More generic cases are better left to the user, they can simply use one of the many AI image generator tools with proper keywords and paste the image into ArahPaint or ArahWeave and finish the design.
What role do AI and machine learning play in modern textile design and manufacturing, and how do you see their impact evolving in the coming years?
As can be seen, artificial intelligence is already being utilised to create patterns. It poses a challenge to pattern designers because they will no longer be in high demand, and the cost of their services will decline. So, the most talented people will choose other career paths. At the same time, AI-generated patterns are not original; rather, they are based on previously collected data blended together. So, this will inevitably lead to flattening of the offer and everything will look alike. Probably the impact will be similar to every technological advance, for example photography did not kill painting, but it was greatly reduced, and the focus has changed.
Many weaving mills still rely on manual methods. What challenges do you face in encouraging traditional manufacturers to adopt Arahne’s digital tools?
The challenges that we face are:
Resistance to change: Many textile industries are accustomed to manual methods and are hesitant to transition to digital systems. They are comfortable enough to run the industry as it is, and are sceptical towards new technology. In many cases it requires a generational change in order to make progress.
Integration with existing processes: There are difficulties related to seamlessly integrating new tools into the companies workflow. From ArahWeave CAD software you can import/export different data to ERP system, however certain adaptations and changes among the data files are often required, which can pose difficulties in adapting one file to the other. Lack of open standards in weaving design specifications is also a problem. When a company switches to a different CAD system, either because of some dissatisfaction or because previous supplier went out of business, a lot of historical design information is lost. Sometimes this is due to objective reasons, since some features were implemented in fundamentally incompatible ways. But it is even more often that some companies use vendor lock-in strategies to prevent the transition, by making files intentionally unreadable by other software.
Lack of professional skills: Implementing digital tools requires technical proficiency that may be lacking in certain companies. We spend a lot of time and resources to effectively train designers. We also offer support throughout yearly subscription periods. In some cases the full cost of training staff is more expensive than the actual software. So, management is reluctant to change, even if alternative solutions are clearly better and will bring benefits in the long term.
What are the biggest challenges weaving mills face when transitioning from traditional looms to digitally driven production, and how can the industry facilitate this shift?
High upfront costs for CAD/CAM software and training can deter smaller mills from adopting the software. But even if we would use subscription-based model, we still need to invest in training.
Textile factories need to set up the modern technology supporting the digital import and export of data, and establishing software infrastructure that allows smooth exchange of data between CAD software and ERP. In order to make high quality fabric simulation, we need to invest time and money in digitising our colours and yarns. Many users expect high quality simulations without doing their homework. For some very complex yarns, the cost of proper simulation is too high compared to simply weaving it. So, we have to have realistic expectations of the technology, and not insist on losing propositions. You do not fly an airplane to do grocery shopping, maybe it is better to take a bicycle. In the same way, you do not spend two days perfecting yarn simulation for a yarn you will use only once, and could have woven it in 30 minutes, if you have the loom ready.
How are advancements in fabric simulation software influencing trends in textile manufacturing, especially in sectors like fashion, home textiles, and technical textiles?
We see ourselves as technology providers, not trend setters. We give our users flexible tools, but what they do with it is up to them. Maybe the most important trend is vertical digital integration between different companies. Previously, we have only improved the digitised processes withing a single company, but in the future, maybe yarn spinner will accompany their physical yarn with a digital twin, which will be ready for use in weaving CAD. And weaving CAD will pass the fabric in physical form and as digital twin, which can serve for realistic garment simulation. Ultimately this will be integrated in sales web configurators, and we will see a lot more on-demand production. But we are still a long way from that goal.
Can you tell us about the inspiration behind Arahne’s collaboration with Gemell Technology? How did this partnership come about?
We initially found each other via LinkedIn, and we quickly found that we are quite complementary. Gemell has a lot of experience in 3D rendering technology, and we have 33 years of experience as traditional textile CAD manufacturer. We need to improve our 3D presentation using the latest technology, and they lack basic weaving expertise, weaving file format support, actual sample designs from production. Both companies are very goal oriented, so we could quickly forge interfaces for transfer of fabric data from CAD to 3D viewer and gradually add features interesting to designers. We have also jointly visited some Arahne’s customers in Italy to showcase the development, gather user’s feedback and get some initial sales.
Moreover, Arahne’s ArahWeave CAD software for fabric design is now integrated with Gemell’s FabricViewer, software for rendering the fabric in 3D. The designer can export the finished fabric from ArahWeave directly to FabricViewer seamlessly, without any additional plugins. Seeing the fabric in 3D, the designer can inspect it more closely and observe the flow of the threads in the weave. Designer can also apply the fabric on a 3D model and render the finished fabric on a customised 3D model made by Gemell.
What are some exciting upcoming developments or new features in Arahne’s software suite that users can look forward to?
We are working in even tighter integration with Gemell’s fabric viewer. At the moment, we already transfer the weave, warp and weft pattern, yarn colours and yarn dimension, and some of the more complex yarn properties like melange or mouline. But we still need to work on transfer to 3D of more complex properties like slub yarns, boucle, printed yarn, metallic yarns of different shapes. Gemell, on its part, is working on supporting bigger weaves, increased performance on computers with lower specifications, and advanced fabric simulation, which is more physically based (warp/weft tension, thread movement because of weave structure). When the calculations become too expensive for real time viewer, we resort to cloud rendering. But we would like to do even more work in local viewer, since that is fully interactive. We would use the cloud rendering only for the most demanding fibre level photo-realistic requirement, which is not typical for normal design work.
