IBioIC is weaving sustainability into fashion’s future
The Industrial Biotechnology Innovation Centre (IBioIC) is a networking and support organisation that connects industry, academia, and government to accelerate the growth of Scotland’s bioeconomy. Established in 2014, IBioIC helps companies bring sustainable, bio-based products and processes to market by providing access to scale-up facilities, funding, talent development, and collaborative networks.
In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Senior Impact Manager, Kim Cameron discusses how the organisation is driving sustainability in the fashion sector by supporting bio-based innovations that replace fossil fuel–derived materials and chemical-intensive processes with cleaner, circular alternatives.
How is biotechnology stitching sustainability into the fashion industry?
From raw material extraction to end-of-life disposal, the fashion industry’s environmental footprint spans every stage of its value chain. With global textile waste surpassing 90 million tonnes annually and continued dependence on fossil fuel-derived fibres, the urgency for a more sustainable path forward has never been greater.
Biotechnology offers one of the most promising solutions to these challenges. By harnessing biological systems such as plants, enzymes, and microbes, researchers and manufacturers are developing bio-based alternatives to conventional fibres, dyes, and production processes—reducing environmental impact while maintaining high performance and quality.
How is biotechnology currently being applied in the fashion and textile sector, and what role is IBioIC playing in this transformation?
Biotechnology is transforming every stage of the fashion and textiles value chain—from fibre production and finishing to garment manufacturing and end-of-life solutions. At its core, biotechnology harnesses living systems to create materials and processes that are less resource-intensive, more circular, and better aligned with global sustainability goals.
Agricultural by-products and food waste are increasingly being used to produce fibres that can replace conventional petrochemical-derived materials such as polyester and nylon. Enzyme-based processes are also emerging as cleaner alternatives to harsh chemical treatments in dyeing and finishing, enabling lower-temperature operations that use less water and energy while minimising pollution.
At IBioIC, we collaborate with researchers, start-ups, and established manufacturers to drive innovation and support the integration of novel bio-based technologies into existing production systems.
Our work includes facilitating industry–academia feasibility projects, connecting stakeholders across the supply chain, and helping to scale promising processes from the laboratory to pilot stage.
Fashion is under scrutiny for waste and overproduction. In what ways can biotech innovations help reduce textile waste and extend product life cycles?
Waste and overproduction remain major challenges for the fashion industry. Biotechnology offers powerful solutions to address both by enabling the creation of materials that are inherently more circular.
One of the most promising innovations in this area is enzyme-based recycling, which can break down blended fabrics—such as polyester-cotton mixes—into their original components, something that mechanical recycling cannot easily achieve.
By returning fibres to their fundamental building blocks, these technologies make it possible to re-spin and re-weave materials into new textiles, keeping them in circulation and out of landfill.
Can you share specific examples where biotechnology has enabled circular solutions in textiles— such as bio-based dyes, or alternative materials?
There is a great deal of creative innovation happening in this space. In Scotland, SeaDyes is developing natural pigments derived from seaweed to be used as dyes for fabrics—offering a renewable, biodegradable alternative to petrochemical-based colour systems.
Similarly, Brilliant Dyes, a spin-out from Imperial College London, is pioneering a dyeing process that uses microalgae to produce vibrant, long-lasting colours while dramatically reducing water and energy consumption.
On the materials front, Tera Mira exemplifies progress in sustainable fibre innovation. The company is creating compostable stretch fibres from seaweed that deliver the same flexibility and recovery as conventional elastane, but without relying on non-renewable resources.
Meanwhile, Bolt Threads and MycoWorks are cultivating mycelium—the root structure of fungi—to create leather-like materials that are both biodegradable and durable enough for use in footwear and accessories.
How do IBioIC’s projects support the development of bio-based raw materials that can replace traditional, resource-intensive fibres like cotton or polyester?
Cotton and polyester form the backbone of the global textile industry, yet both present significant sustainability challenges—cotton farming is highly water- and pesticide-intensive, while polyester is derived from fossil fuels.
At IBioIC, we are supporting projects that explore renewable, low-impact alternatives made from natural resources or from co-products that other industries may consider waste.
A great example is a collaborative project involving Prickly Thistle, Johnstons of Elgin, and the University of Edinburgh, where enzymes were used to soften coarse, low-value Scottish wool.
This innovative process enhances the fibre’s quality, making it suitable for a wider range of higher-value applications and reducing the need to import softer fibres from overseas.
One challenge for the industry is scaling innovations from lab to commercial reality. How does IBioIC help bridge that gap for biotech start-ups and innovators?
Scaling is one of the biggest challenges in any emerging field, and for biotechnology companies, the barriers can be especially demanding. Demonstrating success in the lab is one thing—but proving that a process can perform reliably, safely, and cost-effectively at industrial scale is another.
At FlexBIO, our scale-up facility at Heriot-Watt University, we provide a comprehensive range of bioprocess development services—from fermentation to upstream and downstream processing.
With the recent addition of a 300-litre fermenter, we can now support larger pilot-scale runs, enabling clients to test and optimise their processes before committing to full-scale production. This approach helps de-risk scale-up and ensures a smoother transition from lab to manufacturing.
We also support early-stage companies through ‘Biotech Innovators—Train to Scale,’ an accelerator programme that provides expert guidance, collaborative learning, and practical assistance to help participants reach commercial readiness more quickly.
Beyond technical support, we connect start-ups with funding opportunities, academic expertise, and commercial partners—helping innovative ideas move from the lab into real-world applications.
Our extensive network is truly our greatest strength: we work directly with companies wherever possible, and when we cannot, we connect them with the right partners—ensuring no one must face the challenges of scaling alone.
How does IBioIC assess the impact of its projects on Scotland’s bioeconomy?
We measure impact in several ways, combining both qualitative and quantitative outcomes. Since its launch, IBioIC has supported hundreds of companies and helped build a strong network of more than 400 industry members.
Over the years, we have made substantial investments in collaborative projects that have gone on to attract significant follow-on funding and partnerships. These initiatives have directly created and protected hundreds of high-value green jobs across Scotland’s bioeconomy.
When Scotland’s National Plan for Industrial Biotechnology set out its vision—220 companies and a £1.2 billion bioeconomy by 2025—it was an ambitious goal.
IBioIC has played a key role in helping to exceed those targets, and we are now focused on supporting the next phase as the plan is refreshed for the years ahead.
But we also look beyond figures. Impact is about building long-term capability, creating a network of researchers, entrepreneurs, and manufacturers who are equipped to work together to grow the bioeconomy.
Many innovations require collaboration across academia, brands, and manufacturers. How does IBioIC foster these partnerships to accelerate adoption in fashion supply chains?
Collaboration is central to everything we do. Biotechnology sits at the intersection of science and industry, so progress depends on building bridges between different communities and networks. IBioIC helps by bringing those stakeholder groups together early in the innovation process, to help co-create technologies that align with manufacturing needs.
We facilitate joint projects, workshops, and networking events to help researchers understand industrial challenges and give manufacturers visibility of new technologies coming down the pipeline.
A recent example was a networking session we ran in conjunction with UKFT where we brought both our networks together. We were delighted to see this session give rise to two collaborative projects between industry and academia.
The fashion industry moves quickly, so it is vital that new materials and processes are developed collaboratively, with input from designers, brands, and supply chain partners.
How is IBioIC helping SMEs overcome barriers such as funding, skills, or infrastructure?
SMEs are often the ones driving innovation, but they don’t always have the resources to scale up on their own. We support them through targeted funding programmes, access to shared lab and pilot-scale facilities, and expert advice on both technical and commercial challenges.
We also work closely with Scotland’s universities and colleges to deliver training in areas such as fermentation, bioprocessing, and product development.
Building that skills base is essential if we want the bioeconomy to grow sustainably and keep innovation local.
Looking ahead, what are the top three biotech innovations you believe will most significantly reshape the fashion industry over the next decade?
Bio-based fibres and materials can replace both synthetic and resource-intensive natural fibres, helping to reduce dependence on fossil fuels and improve environmental performance.
Second, microbial and bio-based dye systems have the potential to substantially reduce the environmental footprint of textile colouration. As dyeing remains one of the most polluting stages in textile manufacturing, biotechnological approaches offer cleaner, safer, and less resource-intensive alternatives.
Finally, enzyme-based recycling technologies could make truly circular manufacturing possible.
By breaking down blended fabrics into reusable components, these innovations have the potential to keep textiles in circulation indefinitely.
