As part of the Spring Summer 2026 Milan Fashion Week, Prada debuted a footwear design that would generate a whirlwind of controversy. This sandal was alleged to mimic the Kolhapuri chappal, traditional footwear from the Indian state of Maharashtra.

The runway footwear would result in questions over appropriation, plagiarism, stealing credit, and even result in a court case. Now that some time has passed and reconciliatory steps have been taken, it is high time to step back and assess the situation.

But first:

What is a Kolhapuri Chappal?

A Kolhapuri chappal, also known simply as a Kolhapuri locally, is a tanned leather footwear originating in the eponymous Kolhapur city of India. The middle part of the foot is covered by a thick strap, but the toes are open-ended. Its unique feature is a separate strip to hold the big toe, called a toe ring.

Being made from tanned animal skin, these chappals are exceptionally tough. In modern times, they are a popular choice for events like weddings, celebrations, and festive occasions. They are also worn daily by a number of people in Kolhapur and the surrounding areas, including parts of both Maharashtra and Karnataka.

Kolhapuri Chappal Image below -

What is the Incident About?

Observers in India were quick to notice the similarity between the new sandal and the Kolhapuri chappal. Accusations were made that the Italian fashion giant had stolen the design from the humble designers who crafted the chappal. Among the most vocal of the critics were local politicians and chappal-makers.

The issue became a hot topic as the Kolhapuri has a long-standing tradition of nearly a thousand years. Many families in Kolhapur and the surrounding region have been in the business of making these chappals for generations, especially those from the Charmarkar community. It holds a pride of place in many Kolhapuris’ hearts.

Prada was under the microscope for cultural appropriation and not giving the proper credit to the original artisans. The controversy further rumbled on as rumours swirled about the exorbitant prices the sandals would be sold by Prada, with some quoting a number in excess of Rs. 1 Lakh. Meanwhile, a Kolhapuri chappal is locally sold in the range of Rs. 100 to 200 rupees.

How Did Events Develop?

Social media influencers were quick to pick up on the controversy. Memes, think pieces, and explainers filled the Indian social media space, either calling out Prada or making fun of the controversy. Even Indian celebrities, like Bollywood star Kareena Kapoor, weighed in on the topic.

Meanwhile, six local advocates filed a case against Prada for copying the design of the Kolhapuri chappal.

How Did Prada Respond?

From the first, Prada was quick to acknowledge the influence of the Kolhapuri chappal on their product. There was also an acknowledgement of the skill and artistry of the original craftsmen behind the Kolhapuri chappal.

“We acknowledge that the sandals featured in the recent Prada Men's 2026 Fashion Show are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage”, wrote Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility in a letter addressed to Lalit Gandhi, president of the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA).

Bertelli also dismissed rumours surrounding the supposed price tag. “Please note that, for now, the entire collection is currently at an early stage of design development and none of the pieces are confirmed to be produced or commercialized,” he added.

Aftermath

The Case

The case brought against Prada was dismissed by the Bombay High Court. The case filers were adjudged to be neither proprietor under the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act or parties directly affected by the footwear design.

Future of Kolhapuri Chappal

The Act provides a GI label under which the Kolhapuri chappal is protected and whose design cannot be replicated. However, it is an India-specific act and does not protect the chappal on the worldwide stage.

The incident has however bolstered the conviction to make the Kolhapuri chappal patented. The MACCIA president Lalit Gandhi presented plans for such.

“The GI tag is given by the Indian government. It is not sufficient in the international market. We need to patent our products. This incident has opened our eyes,” said Gandhi. (source)

The ripples of the incident are spreading far and wide as it is set to affect the approach to other sectors too.

“We will patent not just the Kolhapuri chappals, but also Kolhapur’s jaggery,” Gandhi added.

Prada’s Visit to Kolhapur

As part of the process to understand the root of the people’s displeasure as well as contact the original artisans, a team from Prada visited Kolhapur. The team consisted of Paolo Tiveron, technical and production director of Prada’s footwear department, Daniel Contu, manager of the pattern making department and two external consultants.

The team visited manufacturing facilities, met with local artisans, took samples of the chappals and were also gifted the original design for the chappal, called ‘Mauje Puda Kapshi’. There was hope on both parties’ part that Kolhapur’s heritage could be displayed on the international stage in a way that is more beneficial to the artisans behind the footwear.

Conclusion

There is a pervading feeling that despite the controversy, the whole incident could turn out to be a net positive for the Kolhapuri chappal and its makers.

“Everyone is blaming Prada for basing its designs on the Kolhapuri chappals. But I think they have done us a favour by taking our brand and making it global,” said Shivaraj Soudagar, a Belagavi-based producer of the chappal. (source)

There have also been hopes of Prada collaborating with Kolhapuri artisans going forward and expanding business in the country. Hence, out of the depths of a controversy, there is the future possibility of the Kolhapuri chappal becoming more prominent globally and local chappal-makers getting the opportunity to work with Prada.

For more deep dives into such incidents, visit the Fibre2Fashion news page. Articles like this illuminate not only the core aspect of the controversy but also tie it in with global trends.

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